Grown Man Style

Because you're way too old to keep wearing ironic T-shirts.
-Matt Jacobson
I wrote a piece on the Leica X2 ala carte program for GQ.com  and it was published today.

I wrote a piece on the Leica X2 ala carte program for GQ.com  and it was published today.

Purchased in Sydney (Deus Ex Machina) in November of 2010, this pair of 3x/weekly worn pair Edwin denim, had yet to see the inside of a washing machine.  Not even soaked, they had been frozen many times, a hipster trick for killing funk.  After another long flight in these old friends, I finally broke down and gave them a proper wash—gentle, cold and inside out, to be sure.  I’m glad I waited, as these previously raw jeans now have my signature whiskers, wallet marks, and frayed cuffs.  As I’m loyal to what I like, I had an unworn backup pair in reserve, that are now beginning their multi-year break in period.

I donated this original Greg Noll board to LACMA, so the South Bay’s contribution to surfboard design would be represented at last year’s Pacific Standard Time (PST) festivities in Los Angeles.  Now a long way from it’s original birthplace in Manhattan Beach, the board is part of the traveling PST exhibit, now in Kyoto, headed to Australia….represent.

I donated this original Greg Noll board to LACMA, so the South Bay’s contribution to surfboard design would be represented at last year’s Pacific Standard Time (PST) festivities in Los Angeles.  Now a long way from it’s original birthplace in Manhattan Beach, the board is part of the traveling PST exhibit, now in Kyoto, headed to Australia….represent.

There are tool watches and then there are tool watches.  The Rolex 1665 Sea Dweller with a Comex dial represents the ultimate working watch.  According to Delgado and the experts at www.doubleredseadweller.com, 
“COMEX is a French diving company founded in 1961 to explore the depths of the oceans.. The NASA of the deep sea..

From 1970 to 1997 COMEX worked closely with Rolex and many of their deep sea divers were issued Rolex Sea Dwellers as a tool to do their work. Rolex used this as a way to test some of their new watches and to resolve some with issues from COMEX such as decompression divers and their watches not being able to withstand depths.. The Helium Escape Valve (HEV) was developed and tested for COMEX before being commercially available in the original SeaDweller in 1967.

COMEX watches have also been associated with records and experiments such as the max depth of 701 meters or the Hydra experiments and its common to see those watches engraved with specifics about the experiments, etc…”

I have coveted a Comex since I first heard the romantic, Cousteau-era stories of Comex divers relying on their Sea Dwellers at record depths.  The Comex branded versions were never sold at Authorized Dealers, and were given to Comex divers in very limited numbers.  Post their careers at Comex, many of the divers had their watches serviced, and Comex dials replaced with the standard issue plain dial—eschewing the “on wrist marketing” for their former employer. This makes the 300 originally Comex dialed ref. 1665’s fewer and far between. 
When I found this example from a close friend and trusted dealer, I traded away two “old friends,” other vintage submariners, to add this ultimate tool watch to the quiver.

There are tool watches and then there are tool watches.  The Rolex 1665 Sea Dweller with a Comex dial represents the ultimate working watch.  According to Delgado and the experts at www.doubleredseadweller.com

“COMEX is a French diving company founded in 1961 to explore the depths of the oceans.. The NASA of the deep sea..

From 1970 to 1997 COMEX worked closely with Rolex and many of their deep sea divers were issued Rolex Sea Dwellers as a tool to do their work. Rolex used this as a way to test some of their new watches and to resolve some with issues from COMEX such as decompression divers and their watches not being able to withstand depths.. The Helium Escape Valve (HEV) was developed and tested for COMEX before being commercially available in the original SeaDweller in 1967.

COMEX watches have also been associated with records and experiments such as the max depth of 701 meters or the Hydra experiments and its common to see those watches engraved with specifics about the experiments, etc…”

I have coveted a Comex since I first heard the romantic, Cousteau-era stories of Comex divers relying on their Sea Dwellers at record depths.  The Comex branded versions were never sold at Authorized Dealers, and were given to Comex divers in very limited numbers.  Post their careers at Comex, many of the divers had their watches serviced, and Comex dials replaced with the standard issue plain dial—eschewing the “on wrist marketing” for their former employer. This makes the 300 originally Comex dialed ref. 1665’s fewer and far between.

When I found this example from a close friend and trusted dealer, I traded away two “old friends,” other vintage submariners, to add this ultimate tool watch to the quiver.

I hope we’re finally getting past the era of lifestyle brands manufactured by holding companies and branding committees.  If the heritage movement in clothing has done anything, it has shined a light on marques that are built to last.  Ralph leans into the lifestyle with a world class vintage car collection—that he drives, and a ranch that really works.  All this over 35+ years, while surf brands built in Columbus, Ohio only become more of what they are—surf brands built in Columbus, Ohio.

Last summer, I had the pleasure of lunching at a table adjacent to Sergio Loro Piana.  He told the story of his family’s 150+ year history as wool merchants, and of the Loro Piana brand, founded in the 1920’s, that is multi-generationally run, and family owned.  At a visit to his St. Tropez store later that evening, he described the company’s efforts to preserve and develop the Vicuna trade in South America.  Through equal parts conservation and entrepreneurship, the Vicuna business is stronger than ever, and Loro Piana has made the world’s most sublime yarn available in suiting fabric and sweaters.

The same can be said for the company’s efforts in Baby Cashmere.  Made from the downy tufts of a baby goat’s first brushing, the feel of wearing Baby Cashmere is equal to the look on the face of the baby goat being brushed for the first time, see above.

On a visit to Loro Piana’s Beverly Hills store last month, I picked up my second Baby Cashmere sweater.  Twisting three colors of blue/green yarn together, creates an amazing color that is unique to Loro Piana.

I salute the real deals, and Sergio Loro Piana is the realest.  Passionate about his family’s brand, charming beyond expectation, and committed to delivering only the finest materials with the best, understated Italian design.  That’s what defines a true  heritage movement.

Our hero and muse+tool watch=GMS

Our hero and muse+tool watch=GMS

I’m a sucker for shell cordovan. Ever since my At Ease college days selling Alden shell cordovan penny loafers to UCLA frat rats, I’ve coveted this nearly indestructible leather, and have shoes and wallets that are decades old, and only get better with wear.  My pal Nick Gabarro, who is geographically and personally close to the only shell cordovan source that matters, Horween Leather in Chicago, consistently has the best made and coolest shell cordovan watch straps and accessories.  This example is actually the reverse side of a black shell, and it gives the strap a bitchin’ green tone that retains all of the waterproof characteristics of shell cordovan that is usually proffered right side out.  I think this transitional matte dial gold submariner from the mid-80’s looks particularly cool on Nick’s latest.

This is just too happy, and too good not to post….#surf, #summer, #fun